If your tire inflator blows the cigarette-lighter fuse, start at the fuse box. With the ignition off, pull the lighter fuse, look it over, and confirm it’s blown with a multimeter. Test the outlet with a known working device, and check the socket contacts. Replace the fuse only with the correct amperage after disconnecting the battery. If the new fuse blows again, inspect the wiring or use a fused battery lead for high-draw units. Read on for step-by-step troubleshooting and prevention.
Quick Answer
- Pull the cigarette-lighter fuse and check it visually or with a multimeter for continuity.
- Replace a blown fuse with the same amperage (usually 20A). Disconnect the battery first.
- If the new fuse blows too, the inflator may draw too many amps for the socket. Connect it directly to the battery with an inline fuse instead.
- Avoid continuous use. Follow the inflator’s duty cycle (run, then let it cool) to prevent repeat failures.
- Keep spare fuses in your vehicle so you can fix the problem on the spot.
Quick Check: Is a Blown Fuse the Problem?

If your 12V tire inflator won’t run, a blown fuse is the most likely cause. Open the fuse box and look for darkened or broken elements. That quick visual check catches many problems right away.
If the fuse looks fine but you’re still not sure, use a multimeter to test continuity across it. No continuity confirms the fuse is open and needs replacing.
Before you swap anything, verify the power source. Plug a known-working device into the cigarette lighter to confirm the socket supplies voltage. If the socket is dead but the fuse is intact, you’ll need to trace the wiring or check nearby fuses.
If fuses keep blowing under load, consider wiring directly to the battery with alligator clips. Only move to a higher-rated fuse after you’ve confirmed the wiring and the device’s actual amp draw. Keep spare fuses in your vehicle so you can replace a blown fuse on the spot.
Find and Test the Cigarette-Lighter Fuse
Check your owner’s manual to find the fuse box location, usually under the dash or in the engine bay. Identify the cigarette-lighter fuse from the diagram inside the cover. With the ignition off, pull the fuse and use a multimeter to check continuity. No continuity means the fuse is blown. Replace it with the same amperage (typically 20A), keep spares on hand, and if it blows again, have the wiring inspected. For a primer on how to use a multimeter, Fluke’s guide covers the basics clearly.
Locate Fuse Box
Your owner’s manual will tell you exactly where to find the fuse box. Check under the driver’s dashboard first, then the engine compartment. The cigarette-lighter fuse is often rated at 20 amps.
Once you find the box, remove the cover and follow the diagram to inspect fuses for a broken filament or darkened window. Before touching anything, disconnect the battery to avoid electrical shock. Use a multimeter for continuity to confirm the fuse is blown before you replace it. Always match the replacement to the original amperage.
Identify Lighter Fuse
Check your owner’s manual to find which fuse is labeled for the cigarette lighter or accessory outlet. Remove that fuse with the ignition off and the battery disconnected. Then visually inspect the blade fuse for a broken metal strip. That alone often tells you if it’s failed.
For a definitive answer, use a multimeter. Touch the probes to the fuse terminals. No continuity means a blown fuse. Most lighters use a 20A fuse, but check your manual for the exact spec. You can find a reference guide to blade fuse types and ratings on the Littelfuse website.
If fuses keep blowing after replacement, you likely have an electrical problem such as a short circuit or an overloaded outlet. Carry matching spare fuses and use the manual as your guide.
Test And Replace
Start by disconnecting the battery. Consult your owner’s manual to confirm which fuse controls the cigarette lighter, then remove it with needle-nose pliers or a fuse puller. Test it with a multimeter for continuity. No continuity means it’s blown and needs a replacement at the same amperage (typically 20A).
- Locate the lighter fuse per the manual and remove it safely.
- Test with a multimeter for continuity; zero continuity means blown.
- Replace with an identical amperage fuse (usually 20A); insert firmly.
- Reconnect the battery, then plug in a device to confirm the cigarette lighter and tire inflator work.
Test the Outlet and Other Vehicle Power Ports
Start by measuring the outlet’s voltage with a multimeter. It should read close to 12V DC. If the reading is absent or too low, the outlet won’t run your inflator.
Plug a known-working device (like a phone charger) into the socket to verify it supplies live power under load. While the vehicle is off, inspect the cigarette lighter socket for debris, corrosion, or bent contacts. Clean it gently with contact cleaner and a nylon brush.
If the socket shows no power, check for blown fuses in the fuse box before assuming a deeper fault. Never replace a fuse with a higher amperage than specified. If fuses are intact but power is intermittent, look for loose connections at the outlet harness.
Trace the vehicle wiring back as far as needed to find damaged insulation, chafing, or disconnected terminals. Repair wiring with proper crimps or solder and heat shrink, then retest.
Replace a Blown Fuse Safely

If the outlet still won’t power the inflator after checking wiring and connectors, replacing the blown fuse is the next step. Locate the fuse box (dashboard or engine bay) and confirm the correct fuse and rating in the owner’s manual. Then disconnect the vehicle battery before touching anything.
- Use a multimeter to test the suspect fuse for continuity and confirm it’s blown.
- Match the replacement fuse amperage to the manual before inserting.
- Use a fuse puller or needle-nose pliers to extract and install fuses safely.
- Verify the new fuse is seated properly, reconnect power, and test.
If the electrical component still doesn’t work, stop and inspect the wiring rather than swapping fuse after fuse. Repeated replacements without diagnosis can cause bigger problems.
Use a Fused Battery Connection for High-Draw Compressors
For high-draw compressors, choose a fuse holder rated for the compressor’s running and stall current. Mount it close to the battery to protect the cable and vehicle wiring. Use heavy-gauge wire and secure alligator or terminal connections, routing cables away from moving parts and hot surfaces. Always install the fuse inline at the battery positive and match the fuse amperage to the compressor’s specifications.
Fuse Holder Selection
When using a high-draw compressor, connect it to the battery through a quality inline fuse holder. This gives the unit reliable power without overloading the vehicle’s circuits. Choose a holder rated for the compressor’s current (commonly up to 30A). Install a fuse that matches or slightly exceeds the compressor’s steady amp draw to avoid nuisance blows while still protecting against shorts.
- Pick a fused battery connection rated above the compressor’s steady draw to ensure adequate power.
- Verify the amperage rating and compatibility with tire inflators and vehicle electrical components.
- Use short, heavy-gauge leads to minimize voltage drop.
- Secure and weatherproof the holder for reliable operation.
Safe Battery Wiring
High-draw compressors can pull well over 20 amps. Wire them directly to the battery with an inline fuse to protect the vehicle’s circuits and keep performance consistent.
Route the power cord cleanly from compressor to battery, away from hot or moving parts. Use a fused battery connection with an inline fuse rated just above the compressor’s max draw (typically 25 to 30A). Use 10 or 12 AWG wire and tight, corrosion-free terminals. Clamp the fuse holder close to the battery positive terminal to keep the unprotected lead as short as possible.
Inspect the setup before each use for wear, looseness, or heat damage. If you blow a fuse, cut power, fit the correct replacement, and resume.
Why Inflators Trip Fuses (Amps, Duty Cycle, Faults)
Small inflators can draw large amps and blow the cigarette-lighter fuse if you push them past their limits or the fuse’s rating. Treat them like power tools: monitor current, respect duty cycle limits, and check for faults before each use. Amp draw increases as tire pressure rises, and the 20A lighter fuse often can’t handle continuous high-load operation.
- Measure: Watch current draw during use to see if it approaches or exceeds the fuse rating.
- Time: Follow the inflator’s duty cycle. Run it, then let it cool to prevent overheating and higher resistance.
- Inspect: Check the power cord, clamps, and connectors for damage that causes voltage drop and extra power demand.
- Respond: If the unit trips fuses repeatedly, stop using it and address wiring faults or internal motor issues.
Prevent Blown Fuses: Gear and Best Practices
Match your inflator’s amp draw to the lighter-socket fuse rating before you buy. Check the label on your pump and the fuse in the socket. Most sockets are rated at 20 amps and will blow under higher loads. Use an inflator with built-in protection to limit current and prevent damage.
If your inflator needs more amperage than the socket can handle, connect it directly to the battery with alligator clips. This reduces stress on the outlet and gives the compressor the power it needs.
When inflating, monitor pressure and respect the duty cycle. Run the pump in short bursts and let it cool between cycles. Continuous use overheats the motor and raises the risk of a blown fuse. Check the battery charge before heavy use since a weak battery increases current draw. Keep spare fuses, proper adapters, and a reliable inflator on hand.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Just Replace a Blown Fuse?
Yes, but follow the right steps. Disconnect power first, match the replacement to the original fuse type and amperage as shown in your manual, and use a multimeter to confirm the fuse was actually blown before replacing it. If the new fuse blows too, have the wiring and the inflator inspected.
What Is the Most Common Cause of Air Compressor Failure?
Overheating is the most common cause. Follow the compressor’s duty cycle, make sure there’s adequate ventilation, monitor air pressure, and check the power supply before each use. Routine inspection goes a long way toward preventing failure.
How to Reset a Portable Tire Inflator?
Disconnect power and let the unit cool down completely. Then follow the reset button or the steps in the manual. While you wait, inspect the fuse and replace it if needed. If the unit still won’t work, check the power cord and connections for damage.
How to Diagnose a Blown Fuse?
Pull the fuse and look for a broken strip inside the casing. Then use a multimeter to test continuity across the terminals. No continuity confirms it’s blown. Most failures come down to a simple break in the fuse element, and a multimeter gives you a definitive answer in seconds.
Conclusion
Check the fuse, swap it, and test the outlet. If the new fuse holds, keep using the fused cigarette lighter or a fused battery lead, follow duty-cycle limits, and carry a spare fuse. If a fuse blows again, stop and inspect for wiring faults before replacing anything else. When in doubt, get professional help. Safety first: don’t guess with electrical systems.








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